Stay out of the dirty martini with our guide to winterizing

Even the term " winterizing" itself is changing. The industry prefers to talk about long-term storage. Some don't like to use the word at all, because it seems to apply only to northern boaters. "Winterizing - laying up - is not just a cold-climate thing," said Glyn Austin of Evinrude. "No matter where you are, if you know you're not going to use your boat, even for a just a month or two, it's important to go ahead and lay it up the right way."

One expert calls winterizing "the most important maintenance duty a boater can perform." The response from the marine industry's boating maintenance segment is a spate of new products from eco-friendly antifreeze to specially formulated ethanol fuel stabilizers and exterior engine protectants. There's also a new emphasis on boater education with self-help videos, expanded engine manuals and other instruction.

Winterizing for Dummies

So, what is "winterizing"? What does it involve? While manufacturers' maintenance manuals will guide owners through the details of laying up individual engine and boat models, the following industry recommendations give an overall view of what you can expect to find on the "to-do list."

• Replace the engine oil and filter (inboards and 4-stroke outboards only), running the engine to drain out as much old, dirty oil as possible.
• Flush the engine and cooling system; run the engine and circulate freshwater using the flushing fitting; make sure all drain holes are clear. Replace anti-freeze/coolant if applicable.
• Fill the fuel tank to near capacity and treat the fuel with a stabilizer. Run the engine to circulate the mixture.
• Fog the engine while it's running, using the engine manufacturer's specified method; spray until the engine stalls.
• Replace lower unit gear oil (outboards and stern drives); check for moisture in old oil, a sign of deteriorating seals.
• Check all grease fittings specified in the engine manual and treat with the recommended lubricant.
• It's also a good idea to treat the boat's wiring connections with an anticorrosion spray, take out the batteries and store them in a warm, ventilated room on a trickle charger, remove the prop and grease the prop shaft. In some cases, you'll have a freshwater system to purge and winterize with antifreeze, too.

Products from the Pros

For the DIYer, there are plenty of products on the market to help get the job done. The shelves of a well-stocked chandlery run the gamut from interior and exterior engine protectant and oil and fuel stabilizers to flushing treatments and antifreeze. Among the newest products are fuel storage additives and stabilizers reformulated for use with today's ethanol fuel. With added corrosion protection and fuel system cleansers, they're designed to prevent sludge buildup in the tank, as well as gum and varnish formation on injectors and valves.

                Here are some other layup necessities:

Prestone Antifreeze

Look for the new "green" nontoxic, biodegradable propylene glycol antifreeze products. It will work for both potable water and engine cooling systems. Strength is measured by "burst point," the temperature at which a frozen copper pipe will rupture, and usually runs from -50 degrees to -100 degrees Fahrenheit. www.prestone.com

Star Brite Exterior Engine Protectant You'll find new formulations of this specialized product, used to prevent oxidation and the weathering and degradation of exterior parts, including seals, hoses and gaskets. It's also recommended for use on electrical connections. www.starbrite.com

West Marine Crankcase

Oil Stabilizer
Similar to a fuel stabilizer, it's used to treat cylinder walls, connecting rods, the crankshaft and other components against corrosion and moisture during long-term storage. Add it to the regular oil and then run the engine for 10 minutes to let it circulate. www.westmarine.com

CRC Carb and Choke Cleaner

This spray-on product is used to dissolve deposits - including gum and varnish - from automatic chokes and carburetors, and prevent oxidation or corrosion during storage. www.crcindustries.com

salt-away Saltwater Treatment

Saltwater equals corrosion; this biodegradable engine flush is specially made to work saltwater and salt deposits out of the cooling system prior to storage. Its salt-removing chemicals also prevent salt buildup and corrosion during engine use. www.saltawayproducts.com

CRC Fogging Oil, Engine Store

A must for any long-term storage, it's used to protect internal engine parts from moisture and corrosion. Sprayed directly into an air intake or an open cylinder chamber, this oil-based product coats cylinder walls, pistons, bearings and intake valves.
www.crcindustries.com